Rolex Submariner Black Real vs. Fake: 8 Signs to Spot a Fake One

🧭 Rolex Submariner Black Real vs. Fake Guide

Quick Authenticity Checklist

Category	What to Look For	Red Flags
Rehaut Engraving	Deep, sharp, perfectly aligned “ROLEXROLEX” and serial; clean laser etching	Grainy, shallow, too bright, misaligned letters
Dial Printing	Crisp text, clean white printing, perfect spacing; flawless glossy dial	Bleeding print, uneven fonts, dust/bubbles on dial
Indices & Lume	Even Chromalight fill, bright blue glow, perfectly centered plots	Uneven lume, dull color, misaligned plots
Hands Sweep	Smooth sweep (28,800 bph), no stutter	“Micro-stutter,” jumpy sweep, wrong hand length
Cyclops & Date (Date models)	2.5× magnification; bold and centered date font	1.3–1.5× magnification, grey or thin font, misalignment
Bezel	Glossy Cerachrom; platinum-filled numerals; 120 firm, clean clicks	Loose/rough clicks, matte ceramic, painted numerals
Bezel Alignment	Triangle, pip, and indices align perfectly	Slight misalignment or off-centered pip
Case Shape	Sharp edges, uniform brushing, balanced lugs	Over-polished, uneven lugs, wrong crown guard shape
Crown	Precise coronet, clean Triplock dots, smooth threading	Wobbly crown, poor coronet proportions, rough threads
Laser Coronet at 6 o'clock	Very faint; barely visible unless under strong light	Too large, too visible, or missing
Movement (Feel)	Quiet rotor, smooth winding, instant date change	Loud rotor, gritty winding, slow date change
Bracelet Quality	Solid Oyster links, tight tolerances, smooth Glidelock/Easylink	Rattling, light weight, rough brushing, loose Glidelock
Clasp Engravings	Deep, sharp, correctly placed coronet; smooth edges	Shallow laser marks, uneven cut, over-polished edges
Weight	Consistent solid weight from 904L steel	Too light or sometimes too heavy (cheap alloys)
Finishing	Perfect brushed/polished transitions	Uneven brushing, messy transitions
Serial & Reference	Matches paperwork and correct for model	Wrong serial format, mismatched numbers
Lume Performance	Long-lasting, strong blue Chromalight	Weak, short-lived lume

The Rolex Submariner "Black Sub" is one of the world’s most counterfeited luxury watches. Modern replicas are increasingly sophisticated, especially for popular references such as 114060, 124060, 116610LN, and 126610LN. To avoid costly mistakes, buyers need to evaluate the watch using a combination of macro details, movement behavior, finishing quality, and reference-specific characteristics.

1. Core Signs to Identify

1). Serial & Model Engravings

• Genuine serials are sharp, deeply laser-etched, and perfectly aligned.

• Fake watches often show:

  ✧  Grainy or overly thick etching

  ✧  Misalignment between digits

  ✧  Too-bright "white" engraving

⚠️ Many collectors emphasize checking the rehaut engraving first — poorly etched rehauts remain one of the easiest ways to spot a fake.

2). Dial Printing & Indices

Real:

• Crisp, perfectly spaced fonts

• Clean white printing without bleeding

• Indices filled with evenly applied Chromalight

• A glossy, uniform dial surface with no bubbles or dust

Fake:

• Dull or uneven lume

• Slightly crooked indices

• Irregular spacing in the word "SUBMARINER"

• Sunken or cloudy lacquer finish

3). Bezel Quality

Real:

• Have a high-gloss Cerachrom bezel with color-filled platinum numerals

• Rotate with 120 firm, clean clicks

• Feature perfectly aligned markers

Fake:

• Click loosely or too loudly

• Sit slightly misaligned

• Have matte or low-grade ceramic

• Show cheap paint instead of platinum-filled numerals

⚠️ Collectors often mention that bezel action alone can reveal a fake.

4). Case Shape & Edges

Real:

• Have extremely sharp, well-defined chamfers

• Display uniform brushing on the lugs

• Show no distortions around crown guards

Fakes:

• Have over-polished edges

• Uneven lug thickness

• Incorrect crown-guard curvature

• Rough transitions between brushed and polished surfaces

5). Crown & Triplock Seal

Real:

• Perfectly applied Rolex coronet

• Cleanly machined Triple-Lock dots

• Smooth threading and firm resistance

Fake:

• Wobble when unscrewed

• Are too loose or too tight

• Display uneven coronet proportions

6). Movement Behavior

All modern Submariners use Rolex 31xx/32xx calibers with:

• Smooth sweeping second hand (~28,800 bph)

• Instant date change at midnight (for date models)

• A rotor that operates silently

• Consistent accuracy

• Perfect alignment of hands

Enthusiasts frequently note:

• Fakes often have "micro-stuttering"

• Some clones imitate the sweep but fail under close optical inspection

• Power reserve and winding feel are usually wrong

7). Bracelet & Clasp

Real:

• Feels solid with no rattling

• Has tight end-link tolerances

• Uses Rolex-engraved screws (sharp and aligned)

• Includes a precisely finishing Glidelock or EasyLink system

Fake:

• Use low-quality steel

• Rattle when moved

• Have rough brushed finishing

• Show poor clasp engraving depth

• Have Glidelock systems that feel loose or gritty

8). Cyclops & Date Font (116610LN / 126610LN)

Real:

• 2.5× magnification

• A crisp, high-contrast date font

• Perfect centering within the window

Fake:

• Often show ~1.5× magnification

• Misaligned numbers

• Slightly grey fonts instead of deep black

Collectors highlight the Cyclops as one of the most reliable authenticity checks.

2. Reference-Specific Authenticity Notes

1). Submariner114060 (No-Date, 40mm)

• Features Cerachrom bezel and a maxi dial

• Rehaut engravings should be perfect and aligned

• Case profile is slightly slimmer than the later 124060

• Lug shapes are more "blocky"

⚠️ Common fake giveaway: Incorrect rehaut spacing and dull lume.

2). Submariner124060 (No-Date, 41mm)

• Refined 41mm proportions (thinner lugs vs. 114060)

• Improved Chromalight glow that looks brighter and more uniform

• New 3230 movement with noticeably smoother winding

Typical fake mistake: Case finishing that still resembles the older 40mm model.

3). Submariner Date116610LN (40mm)

• 2.5× magnification Cyclops

• Stronger greenish-blue Chromalight lume

• Distinctive date font with consistent thickness

Issues often seen in replicas:

• Incorrect date font ("open 6" and "open 9")

• Weak anti-reflective coating under the Cyclops

4). Submariner Date126610LN (41mm)

• Wider bracelet taper and slightly larger case

• Updated 3235 movement (longer power reserve)

• More refined clasp engraving

⚠️ Common fake clue: Incorrect bracelet taper or over-polished clasp edges.

3. Additional Real-World Tips

Based on aggregated user observations:

• Weigh the watch — modern Submariners have a consistent weight range; many counterfeits are significantly lighter.

• Listen to the rotor — a real 31xx/32xx is extremely quiet.

• Magnify the coronet at 6 o'clock (laser-etched) — on genuine pieces it is almost invisible unless inspected under direct light.

• Check bezel pearl glow — real Cerachrom pearls glow evenly; fakes often look greenish or dim.

• Inspect the screw threads — Rolex threads are smooth, firm, and "buttery."

• Never rely solely on box and papers — counterfeit sets are extremely common.

💡 Final Advice

• Always request macro photos: rehaut, dial printing, crown guards, clasp engravings, and date window.

• If possible, compare side-by-side with a verified authentic Submariner.

• When buying from the secondary market, insist on:

  ✧  A professional inspection

  ✧  A time-grapher test

  ✧  Opening the caseback (if allowed) for movement verification

A genuine Rolex Submariner—whether 114060, 124060, 116610LN, or 126610LN—shows perfect consistency in materials, finishing, and engineering. Even the best counterfeits still fail in fine details when examined closely.